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28 July 2023
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Unique ‘contrasting couture’ presentations at FDCI

Janhvi Kapoor walked the runway in a showstopper silhouette in an electric blue lehenga adorned with 3000 hand-embroidered bugle beads, which took 457 man hours to make…reports Tanya Banon

When it come to design sensibilities designers Gaurav Gupta and Varun Bahl are poles apart, but on day three of the FDCI Hyundai India Couture Week their couture presentations made the Capital proud; couture was presented in two very unique and fabulous ways. 

After successfully showcasing at Paris Haute Couture Week in July, Gaurav Gupta showcased his Couture’23 collection Hiranyagarbha in partnership with DLF Emporio at the offsite location.  

Gupta known for his sculptural prowess and design which scales architectural heights, was inspired for this collection by the. cosmos in Vedic philosophy. The interpretations of the five elements: Panchamahabhutas – earth (Prithvi), water (jal), fire (Agni), air (vayu), and space (Akasha) from the universal womb on statement silhouettes and designs made his collection contemporary and fashionable and en vogue. 

The designer has made successful inroads on the international platform with the likes of pop sensation Cardi B choosing his ensembles for red carpet occasions. Aishwariya Rai has worn the designer at Cannes recently.  This edit of the couture, the designer has expanded the Hiranyagarbha story to include reception cocktail lehengas, gowns, saris, and modern hybrid silhouettes with the synergies of comfortable, confident, easy couture.

Janhvi Kapoor walked the runway in a showstopper silhouette in an electric blue lehenga adorned with 3000 hand-embroidered bugle beads, which took 457 man hours to make.

 “The starkness of space is imagined in the absolute whites submerged in lustrous, iridescent pearls and crystals orbiting around the body; The wind is reminiscent in smoke pearl embroideries on shades of moondust; Glass bugle beads are hand-embroidered on a striking electric blue reflecting the currant of the water; The vibrant Malachite evokes the glory of the earth; and the acid yellow reminds us of ferocious flames of the fire,” read the designer’s note. 

Interpreting fantasy and whimsical creatures like Dragons, Pegasus, and Centaur on silhouettes rendered in 3-D embroideries, the men’s collection of tuxedos, bandhgalas and jackets were  elevated flamboyance.

True to his signature style Varun Bahl’s artisanal embroideries with beautiful 3D flowers were urbane and chic. Youthful and playful silhouettes brought a fresh and contemporary feel to his designs in vivid hues. 

Bahl who is a favourite amongst Delhi’s fashionable set, has also become the go-to designer for millennials and Gen Z who look for styles which are both free-spirited, boho-chic with haute couture craftsmanship. His bridal couture pieces cater to the contemporary and modern bride, who looks for something dreamy and yet has an experimental and edgy vibe.

The designer has retained his strong emphasis on fine handwork and craftsmanship which has resulted in dramatic yet functional ensembles perfect for the modern bride. Actor Bhumi Padnekar closed the show for the designer dressed in a gold ensemble featuring floral gold motifs and a sexy thigh high slit. 

ALSO READ-Ritu Kumar weaving tradition into modern couture

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